AUTOBAHN eight Canadian musicians and one German manager sweaty and cramped in a dusty van sleep-deprived, can't nap, tell jokes to pass the time excited as hell getting used to these rows of lush trees none of them old and small hills dotted with red tile roofs (animals used to live on the first floor you can still smell them sometimes) eyes always open for a castle watching a village from above every now and then green is overtaken by shocking yellow fields of canola flowers rapeseed with a new name the van suddenly smells of summer SACRED MOMENTS OF STILLNESS Hotel Heidehof, Ingolstatd, Germany. I have a new nickname and a second-floor room with down bedding but no sleep. Jet-lagged still. Clanking and banging from a room below, light leaking into the alley. One hundred and fifty years ago it would have been the inn-keeper's wife kneading bread for breakfast plucking the chicken rolling dumplings. Not enough time in the day. When the morning seeped in, changing soft yellow lamplight to blue, then gray she would gather up her apron, pull off her tired clothes and slip into the sauna. Later, she would emerge silently, rinse herself off with fresh water and slide into bed beside her snoring husband, smelling of eucalyptus and cedar. When she awoke again amidst the distant heat and laughter of strange men she would remember the flicker of flame the smell of yeast and the sound of birds sleeping. FINGERPRINTS OF BUDAPEST river with seven bridges gypsies and vocal jazz castles loom proudly standing still neon lights wink "we're free" church rooftop reflects sun like stained-glass windows god preserved in gold-leaf bullet holes in ornate plaster trim near the border a W.C. attendant yanks a British tourist out of a stall when she doesn't pay shouting match in English and Hungarian I buy a ceramic doll with a blue dress and elaborate hat for my daughter though no-one here dresses traditionally the masseuse in the hotel has no time for shyness "Everything off" she commands places a tiny towel over some of me her eyes are accustomed to nakedness her hands know how to calm the bewildered traveler nightingales chatter invisibly in tall trees openly speaking their minds all night another band has befriended us they know we need to be kissed on both cheeks at the final show, an Hungarian witch tells my future the creases of my palm a map of who I am and where I'll go in her black olive eyes she knows I am also a writer "hello" means good-bye back in Germany, I find smudges of plaster on my clothing - fingerprints of Budapest OSNABROOK Wandering the May festival before the show I follow an elderly woman into a church. She sits while I stand awed by new walls disguised as ancient stone climbing upward brick by brick to connect with the old ones left standing when the Rathausplatz was bombed out. Heavy air presses down on my shoulders in a dizzying calm. Cold quiet prickles my skin. My breath slides reverently in and out. The woman prays to Mary, her fingers clasped together close to her heart. Closed eyes see her mother huddled over her between pews, praying for absolution as walls explode into open sky. Jesus hangs huge and silent in the centre. The woman stands, lights a candle, places it at Mary's feet. Dips her finger into holy water by the door. A ripple rolls out from the middle, brushes the edge of the basin. The dry scrape of footsteps. Strains of rock and roll waft in through the opening door along with smells of bratwurst and beer. Outside a flying swing carousel spins in a narrowing gyre. A maypole casts yellow ribbon shadows. A new ceremony of innocence. The womans' feet step assuredly over uneven stones while mine twist and stumble. She rounds a corner and disappears into late afternoon light. Beside me, silhouetted against steeples and bell towers that reach up to claim their portion of sky, sits a lion bird droppings on his small stone head. Beyond, the church clock clutches time - handfuls of gold. Heidi McCurdy - 2002 email - hrmccurdy@look.ca